Friday, July 1, 2016

Why tackling food waste is a win-win for manufacturers — and 3 ways it's getting done


$218 billion a year. The U.S. spends that on food that is never eaten. That equals to about 1.3% of the nation's GDP and 20% of cropland, fertilizer, fresh water, and landfill volume, according to Eric Kessler, founder of Arabella Advisors and senior managing director of its Good Food Practice, which advises philanthropists and investors on ways to improve the food system.
While a significant portion of food (and money) waste is at the consumer level, the food and beverage supply chain from farm to factory to retailer also generates food waste in a number of areas.
In 2011, the Grocery Manufacturers Association teamed with the Food Marketing Institute and National Restaurant Association to form the Food Waste Reduction Alliance (FWRA), which has since made significant efforts to reduce food waste across the supply chain. While this is a start, manufacturers looking inward at their supply chains can determine innovations that suit their portfolios and business models.
Manufacturers' opportunities to reduce food waste can drive profits, boost shareholders' confidence, and bolster commitments to transparency and sustainability in the eyes of consumers. Food waste is a win-win manufacturers can no longer afford to ignore.

A busy year of industry goals and action

Over the last year, the food and beverage industry and national and international governing bodies have taken steps toward reducing food waste:

Standardized date labeling

Data from ReFED, a multistakeholder group focused on nationwide food waste solutions, showed that a standard date labeling system could generatean estimated annual benefit of about $1.82 billion, second only to consumer education.
"One business' 'best used before' is another business' 'freshest by,' and those can have totally different definitions (with) no consensus around that," said Kessler. "We’re excited about how all the players in industry and the advocacy and regulatory sides want to get together and make this one simple fix."
Nestle voiced its support for the House and Senate bills last month, and General Mills also expressed support for standardized date labeling, though it didn't mention specific legislation. Changing labels comes at a cost, but when expiration date confusion leads to food waste at the retail and consumer levels, that also means wasted ingredients, resources, and labor expenses for manufacturers.
Stasz emphasized in her testimony before the House last month that "date labeling is not THE solution to the food waste issue," and there is no "silver bullet" for solving the problem.
Still, revisiting date labeling procedures and packaging language could help manufacturers identify ways to better use shelf life technology, on-package real estate, or marketing campaigns to better demonstrate the true shelf life of a product.

Recycle food waste

GMA companies recycled nearly 94% of food waste generated during manufacturing in 2014, Stasz said in her House committee testimony. According to a 2014 report conducted by the FWRA, food and beverage manufacturers recycled 93.4% of food waste in 2013 (94.9% was diverted from landfills). Of that total, 86.8% became animal feed, and the rest became fertilizer, compost, and biofuel.
Recycling can take many forms depending on a manufacturer's portfolio and supply chain. 
In its 2015 Best Practices Guide for food waste, the Food Waste Reduction Alliance (FWRA) noted a strategy implemented by ConAgra for SnackPack pudding: Instead of wasting the leftovers of one flavor of pudding that remained in a manufacturing line before switching the line to a different flavor, ConAgra strategically reordered the flavors, created intentionally blended varieties, and donated them.
In another industry example, Nestle operates 22 Nescafe factories in which the company recaptures all coffee grounds and reuses them for renewable energy. Manufacturers can also convert food waste into energy by usinganaerobic digesters, though it does require an upfront cost to implement.
But 63% of manufacturers in FWRA's 2014 report also indicated that barriers stood in the way of recycling food waste. These included:
  • Insufficient recycling options (70%)
  • Transportation constraints (70%)
  • Liability concerns (50%)
  • Concerns about collection and storage related food safety (50%)
Other barriers included limited availability of recycling facilities, transportation costs associated with long distances, strict internal requirements for food waste handling, and regulations that limit the reuse of certain types of food waste.
While barriers remain, recycling food is one of the most widely practiced methods to reduce waste across the supply chain. In certain cases, the right recycling innovations could also lead to additional revenue streams for a manufacturer.

Donate leftovers

In 2013, manufacturers donated 106 million pounds of food that was discontinued, mislabeled, bulk, or otherwise safe but unsellable, according to the FWRA report. In 2015, that number jumped to 800 million pounds of food donated to food banks, according to the GMA.
Through its Breakfasts for Better Days program, Kellogg provided more than 1.4 billion servings of food, more than half of which were breakfast, to families in need. That prevented much of these safe, edible foods from ending up in a landfill.
Manufacturers can also donate leftover food to farmers for livestock feed. This sweetens the deal for farmers within the manufacturer's supply chain but can also create additional relationships and revenue streams with farmers outside the manufacturer's existing supplier network.
Concerns also surround donations because of food safety. However, the Good Samaritan Food Donation Act, passed in 1996, protects manufacturers from liability when they donate food to a nonprofit, including removing civil and criminal liability if a product donated in good faith harms the recipient.
Manufacturers can create programs or partner with startups and app developers dedicated to connecting food companies with nonprofit and aid organizations.

Food waste reduction: The ultimate win-win

"Of all of the challenges facing our food system, food waste is one where everybody agrees," said Kessler. "There's nothing contentious about this. There are debates on how best to proceed, how best to get it done, but it's in everybody's interest to reduce food waste."
Food waste is an enormous inefficiency with lost sales and costs of ingredients and resources needed for production, packaging, and delivery, such as water, fuel, and payroll. It's in the best interests of both manufacturers and shareholders to develop food waste reduction strategies sooner than later.
"There's a lot of emotional, environmental, and ecological reasons to do this, but the bottom line is, it's waste," said Kessler. "And how can you run a manufacturing company, whether it's food or something else, with such a huge waste volume on your production line?"

Supply Chain Sustainability Takes Root


Whether the motive is saving the environment or saving money, companies are embracing supply chain sustainability from the ground up.

Businesses are paying attention. A 2014 McKinsey & Company survey asked respondents about the actions their companies are taking to address environmental issues, and practices they use to manage sustainability. CEOs were twice as likely as they were two years before to see sustainability as a top priority, according to survey results. Their stated motivation in 2014 was aligning sustainability with the organization's goals; two years prior, cost cutting was the primary motivation.Sustainability is rising. Born out of global concern over climate change, on April 22, 2016, a record 175 countries signed the Paris climate agreement, voluntarily pledging to cut greenhouse gas emissions.
When it comes to green and sustainable supply chains, though, cost cutting is still the driving force.
"Sustainability is not always to help the environment," says Patrick Penfield, professor of practice, supply chain management, at Syracuse University's Martin J. Whitman School of Management in Syracuse, N.Y. "Every dollar saved through supply chain sustainability efforts is a dollar for profitability."
Whether companies are embracing lean, green, and sustainable supply chains to save money, protect the environment, or because customers and employees want them to, there is no question that technology makes it possible to implement changes large and small that have a positive environmental impact.
Green opportunities abound. From reducing energy consumption and carbon emissions to using less packaging and more environmentally friendly materials, businesses are making significant and often innovative changes that offer a win-win: reducing carbon footprints while often saving money.
At Dean's Natural Food Market, a small New Jersey-based organic food store chain, sustainability, not savings, is the motivation. The second sentence of Dean's employee handbook states that the company emphasizes "community before profits."
As one example, Dean Nelson, founder and owner of the four-store chain, refused to respond to shopper demands to carry the popular Keurig K-cup coffee pods until the beverage company offered a recyclable option.
"We're about raising consciousness, developing staff, and educating customers," Nelson says.
Dean's also demonstrates its commitment to sustainability by using eco-friendlyboxes, flatware, and coffee cups at its hot bar. It plans to begin offering reusable glassesat its juice bar, so customers can get a smoothie using their own glassware, with saving incentives.
Nelson notes that verifying sustainable practices among food suppliers is particularly challenging. Samarth Sarthi, CEO at SCA Technologies, a Pittsburgh-based category sourcing and cost management solutions provider, agrees.
"Supermarkets often buy through aggregators so they don't know who or where the products come from," says Sarthi, whose company provides supply chain software to restaurant chains.
Add the challenge of not knowing enough about your supplier's suppliers and how that impacts your supply chain.
"While a number of companies are starting to address this, many still don't realize the full impact of how a disruption at that end of the chain can affect them, and where they might be susceptible," says Toby Brzoznowski, executive vice president of LLamasoft, a supply chain design software company in Ann Arbor, Mich.

GETTING DOWN WITH SUPPLY CHAIN TRANSPARENCY

When Celebriducks owner Craig Wolfe wanted to create a baby-friendly rubber duck made from non-PVC material, he brought manufacturing back to the United States from China so that he could retain tight control over materials sourcing.
"I wanted full supply chain transparency and didn't want to leave anything to chance," says Wolfe, founder and president of the California company.
He collaborated with PolyOne, an Ohio global plastics compounder, to develop an end product made of material approved for food contact and medical application.
Like Wolfe, many companies are focusing on supply chain elements they have more control over, including transportation. This is where technology is having a significant impact, as any transportation management system (TMS) provider will explain. By using sophisticated software, shippers can optimize modes and loads—shifting from over-the-road only to intermodal, or changing trucking equipment, for example.
Some companies are getting innovative, too. For example, Texas-based logistics services provider Transplace helps shippers save money and reduce the number of shipments with its co-shipping service, TransMATCH. A specific initiative that delivers products from Mexico to the United States by matching heavy cargo, which prevents trailers from being fully loaded because of weight restrictions, with lightweight cargo that fills the empty space above the heavy products, TransMATCH was recognized with a Supply Chain Innovation Award from the Council of Supply Chain Management Professionals.
"With this service, we combine heavy products such as tile or home appliances with much lighter ones—ladders and plastic cups—in rail cars and trucks," explains Ben Cubitt, senior vice president, consulting and engineering for Transplace.
The company is seeing more collaboration like this among shippers. Cubitt cites a situation where three consumer products companies with Atlanta distribution centers were delivering to the same customer in another part of the country. By combining their shipments, rather than shipping separately, they were able to use fewer trucks and save money.
This has a positive impact on their shared customer, as well. "If I reduce the number of deliveries that customer has to handle per day by cutting the number of deliveries by 40, that's 40 fewer unloads the customer has to handle," he says.
Sherwin Williams of Cleveland, the nation's largest specialty retailer of paint and painting supplies, leverages Transplace's resources to support its fleet backhaul program. The paint company's Contract Transportation Systems Co. (CTS) subsidiary is a private fleet that runs 60 million miles annually, delivering products from company distribution centers in six regions to 4,100 stores all over the country. Rather than bring those trucks back to the distribution center empty, a dedicated sales team finds loads to pick up near destination stores and deliver on the way back to each truck's home base.
"Our sales team goals are aligned with the company's to reduce our carbon footprint," says Russ Beeg, regional director of sales, west fleet, for CTS. "In addition to working to make sure our trucks don't run empty, we recently purchased 450 tractors with cutting-edge technology that will help reduce fuel consumption."

BUILDING TO SPEC

AFN Logistics, an Illinois-based third-party logistics provider, recently used a simulated supply chain to help a beverage manufacturer save 13.8 percent on transportation hard costs related to shipping to its largest retail customer. After a data dump that went through a quantitative and qualitative assessment, AFN built a two-stage simulated transportation solution with the manufacturer's and customer's existing requirements.
When the manufacturer implemented the simulated recommendations, it cut 6.5 percent in hard costs during the first phase, according to Brian Winshall, AFN's executive vice president. When it adjusted the customer's must-arrive-by date in the second phase, it generated another 7.8 percent savings on top of previous cuts. The beverage manufacturer also increased on-time delivery, eliminated chargebacks for late deliveries, and reduced the number of shipping days from seven to three—and then again down to two.
"The beverage manufacturer thought it was doing a good job before working with us and it was, but there's always a point where you can do a little better, especially when you're not addressing a core competency in the organization," says Winshall.
Transportation changes such as using lighter trucking equipment for heavy goods that include bottled water and canned goods can also reduce carbon emissions, Cubitt points out. With that approach, the shipper can add more products before reaching the legal weight load, thereby reducing the number of shipments.
"Shippers want to reduce the number of loads," Cubitt says. "It translates to direct savings and it's better for the environment. There's also a ripple effect through the supply chain when you use fewer trucks that eventually become obsolete and have to be disposed of."
In addition to reducing energy consumption on the road, some companies are reducing it within the operation. Dean's Natural Food Market, for example, spent nearly $60,000 to completely convert one store to LED lighting one year ago. The project, which encompassed the sales floor, stockrooms, refrigerated cases, and walk-in coolers and freezers, saves nearly 60,000 kilowatt hours and $13,000 in energy costs annually. The company's fourth store, opening soon, will also be all-LED.
Avnet, Inc., a global Fortune 500 technology distributor based in Phoenix, is also switching from incandescent to LED lighting in facilities as they're refreshed. In addition, the company is partnering with Mother Nature to generate some of its own power.
The solar parking canopies it has installed in its Phoenix distribution center parking lot and an office building in Tempe, Ariz., serve two purposes. First, they minimize the impact the region's brutal sunlight has on vehicle interiors, making them significantly more comfortable at the end of the work day. Second, solar panels installed on the canopy tops generate power that is used by the facility or returned to the grid for a utility credit.
At the Tempe location, the 3,724 solar panels installed on the parking canopies as well as the roof generate more than 1.7 million kilowatt hours of electricity per year—about 60 to 65 percent of the facility's energy load. The project saved Avnet approximately $130,000 in utility costs during its first year; utility savings are expected to exceed $5.8 million over the next 25 years. The Tempe solar panels also reduce the company's carbon emissions by 996 metric tons annually (the equivalent of removing 210 cars from the road each year).

RIDERS ON THE STORMWATER

At New York City-based commercial real estate services company Cushman & Wakefield, Ben Conwell is seeing more companies working to minimize their facility's environmental impact not only by harnessing solar power, as Avnet does, but by addressing stormwater runoff, as well.
Conwell, senior management director of the company's e-commerce and electronic fulfillment specialty practice group, says that distribution centers and warehouses often have "a tremendous amount of impervious surfaces"—roofs, driveways, and employee and trailer parking lots, for example. Today, many facility designers are working to handle runoff in a more environmentally friendly way.
"Stormwater runoff is often managed by directing it into a huge pond that takes up real estate and releases it to the ground or public stormwater system," Conwell says. "Smart designers now use pervious surfaces that allow rainwater to percolate through the surface and dissipate under the driveway or parking lot."
This is possible because new materials eliminate long-term, expensive maintenance issues with earlier potential solutions, including surfaces cracking under heavy weight.
Roof runoff can also be collected to irrigate landscaping. "A one-million-square-foot distribution center has about 25 acres of roof," he explains. "Instead of wasting the runoff by sending it into the stormwater system, environmentally conscious companies are recycling it for irrigation."
Shippers are also looking for ways to create a greener, more sustainable supply chain through packaging changes—using less, recycling more. Glass House Shirt Makers, a Brooklyn-based contemporary menswear manufacturer, went minimalist from the beginning. Founder Daniel Bernardo, who started the company after working as a sustainable development consultant, even selected a business name linked to sustainability.
"Glass communicates our goal of transparency as a company from crop to finished garment," he says.
Glass House reduces packaging when shirts are shipped from the contract manufacturer in Chicago to the Brooklyn headquarters and again to retailers.
The traditional packaging approach from manufacturer to warehouse puts shirts in individual poly bags, but Glass House requires that they be hung on re-usable hangers and packed in re-usable wardrobe boxes. After a quality inspection, shirts are re-packaged for store delivery or mail order without the traditional cardboard stays, tissue paper, pins, and poly bags typically used for men's shirts.
When shipped to stores, folded shirts are packaged together in a single large poly bag. For mail order, each shirt is individually bagged and shipped in a reusable padded mailer.
"Even the hang tags are made of a recyclable polymer base that biodegrades in a landfill in six months," Bernardo says.
Avnet has also invested in more eco-friendly packaging changes, starting with re-engineered cardboard shipping packages that take advantage of technology, allowing the same level of product protection but with a lighter cardboard. A new design combined with thinner cardboard has made a significant impact.
"We save thousands of pounds of cardboard and reduce emissions because we transport less bulk and weight," says MikeBuseman, Avnet's chief global logistics and operations officer.
In addition, when circumstances permit, Avnet returns certain packaging used with products delivered to its distribution centers—pallets, totes, and larger-form packaging that can be broken down and later re-assembled—back to the supplier for re-use.
"This only works when the supplier is close enough to make it feasible from a fuel and carbon emissions standpoint," Buseman adds.

GOING FORWARD ON REVERSE

Product returns—reverse logistics—are also a factor in a green and sustainable supply chain. According to Optoro, a Washington, D.C., software company that provides retailers with cloud-based, multi-channel selling technology, the environmental impact of the 3.5 million products that consumers return every year is 4 billion pounds of waste and 11 million metric tons of carbon emissions.
"Most stores, including the large retailers with old systems and a lot of storefronts, don't have the capacity to manage this in a way that's financially substantial or environmentally friendly," says Ann Calamai, Optoro's director of sustainability.
Returned merchandise usually goes back into inventory, gets liquidated, or is donated or thrown out, she says. In addition, inefficient returns systems contribute to energy waste and pollution. Optoro's systems that help find new homes for returns include a direct-to-consumer retail site, Blinq.com, and a liquidation sales site, Bulq.com.
"Most stores don't have the capacity to manage product returns in an environmentally friendly way."
— Ann Calamai
Director of Sustainability,
 Optoro
When Groupon implemented Optoro's returns management system, the mobile and online commerce company experienced improvements in three significant areas:
  1. Decreasing waste by 60 percent by relying less on liquidators.
  2. Reducing fuel use by 30 percent and cutting emissions by 27 percent by eliminating extra steps involved in selling to wholesalers or liquidators and selling directly to consumers instead.
  3. Shifting from disposing or recycling 21 percent of goods to re-selling 91 percent of the returned or excess inventory directly to consumers.
Software plays a major role in creating a more sustainable supply chain, whether it's in managing returns, identifying optimal transportation options, or designing a digital supply chain that helps a company identify and prioritize opportunities. But people are important, too.
"We've found that when we just optimize through technology, we miss little pieces," says Winshall of AFN Logistics. "But when we combine technology and people, we have the best output for customers."
And whether the shift to sustainability is motivated by a concern for the environment, customer requirements, reputation management, employee satisfaction, or cost savings, the Paris Agreement foreshadows the reality that improving supply chain sustainability might not be optional in the future.
"The good news," says Cubitt, "is that a high percentage of the initiatives that drive sustainability will also drive process improvements and cost savings."
How to Go Green

How to Play the July 4th Sales

As retailers extend discounts past their ‘final hours,’ shoppers adjust to perpetual promotions

Retailers launch sales to get consumers’ attention, but so many holidays sales are making regular prices lose value. WSJ ‘On Style’ columnist Christina Binkley joins Lunch Break with Tanya Rivero with the details. Photo: Allison Scott/The Wall Street Journal
With the July 4th holiday approaching, watch for emails landing in your inbox pitching big sales from retailers on this traditional summer sale day. They’ll start by offering deep discounts. Then on Monday, they’ll press the urgency—Final hours! If past experience is any guide, you may wake up July 5 to find the sale has been extended and is still going.
As they battle for attention, retailers are increasingly playing a hurry-up-and-wait game, which leaves consumers struggling to figure out when the sales are climaxing with maximum discounts.
Retailers over Memorial Day repeatedly warned shoppers they’d better move fast. “Only Hours Left!” Lands’ End announced in an email blast Monday afternoon. “Last Chance,” Pottery Barn intoned. But by Tuesday, their sales and others’ were still on. “Memorial Day might be over, but our sale is not,” said an email from menswear seller Knot Standard.
Pottery Barn extended its Memorial Day sale through Tues., May 31.ENLARGE
Pottery Barn extended its Memorial Day sale through Tues., May 31. PHOTO: POTTERY BARN
Deep discounts for some retailers including Neiman Marcus, which also extended its Memorial Day sale, have lasted virtually all month. Some Fourth of July sales started early. Pottery Barn was advertising 70% off for its Independence Day sale as early as June 23.
Retailers agonize over whether and when to offer discounts, and fashion brands hate sales. They risk teaching consumers to wait for a sale to buy and make it tougher for retailers to sell items at full price. Extending a sale with an email blast creates a potentially even more potent mix: It could make it tougher to convince consumers to buy discounted items because they wait for an even better offer. A shopper who rushes to buy after an urgent email says a sale will end may be annoyed to wake up the next morning to an email saying the sale continues.
“Basically, it’s always a sale now,” says Barry Schwartz, a Swarthmore College consumer psychologist, professor, and author of The Paradox of Choice a groundbreaking 2004 book that argued brands benefit from offering fewer choices. “The retailers are killing themselves.”
Old Navy extended its Memorial Day sale. ENLARGE
Old Navy extended its Memorial Day sale.PHOTO: OLD NAVY
The retail landscape is brutal these days. Stores are struggling to get traffic as more shoppers go online. There has been a string of disappointing earnings from retailers including Macy’s, Nordstrom and Gap. Stores are closing. More merchandise is being sold on sale.
Shoppers are doing more research and waiting to make purchases, says Dr. Schwartz, “because the signals they get from the market are completely unreliable.”
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“Guys won’t buy online without a discount,” says Matthew Mueller, co-founder and president of Knot Standard, which continued its Memorial Day sale to Tuesday because it figured men would be too busy enjoying the weekend to shop on Monday.
On the afternoon of May 30, Memorial Day, Lands’ End sent out a promotion for a Memorial Day sale, saying “Only Hours Left.” But it extended the sale through May 31, above, with a promotion sent Tuesday morning.ENLARGE
On the afternoon of May 30, Memorial Day, Lands’ End sent out a promotion for a Memorial Day sale, saying “Only Hours Left.” But it extended the sale through May 31, above, with a promotion sent Tuesday morning. PHOTO:LANDS’ END
Lands’ End’s chief executive, Federica Marchionni, says the retailer decided to extend its Memorial Day sale late that Monday afternoon. Sales have been difficult this year, but picked up with the new discounts that weekend. “The business was suffering, so we said, let’s extend one more day,” Ms. Marchionni says. “We don’t want to extend every time.”
Rather than discounting, she says she would prefer to set a “fair price” and stick to it. “We have great chinos for $59,” she says. “We are now obliged [to hold sales], because this industry is so competitive, but it’s not what we want.”
“Retailers have no choice” but to extend sales, says branding consultant Martin Lindstrom. He says holding a one-day sale can actually reduce the number of shoppers who will participate. “People today are so busy that they cannot find the time to go into a store on a particular day,” says Mr. Lindstrom. “If stores set a deadline, visitation drops 20 to 25%.”
Neiman Marcus held a sale on Memorial Day that was still going on June 2.ENLARGE
Neiman Marcus held a sale on Memorial Day that was still going on June 2. PHOTO: NEIMAN MARCUS
Sale prices are becoming the “new normal,” saysDominique Hanssens,professor of marketing science at UCLA’s Anderson School of Management. Several years ago, roughly 40% of purchases were made on sale, a number that has risen substantially in the past year or two given the rapid recent escalation of sales, he estimates.
For July 4, Lands’ End will try a different tack: a promotion that doesn’t involve discounting. The hope is to shift consumers’ attention to the value and story behind its products. Lands’ End will launch a new “1776” coat, an homage to the holiday, that shoppers can pre-order and receive with a gift book by illustrator Sam Fink on the Declaration of Independence.
Lands’ End is also planning for a July 4 sale, Ms. Marchionni says.
Knot Standard is trying to avoid discounting by launching a sweepstakes for shoppers to win a tour of Italian fabric makers this fall. Late last week, the company’s executives remained unsure of whether they would also offer a sale online. “There’s no way you can get out from under that once you start,” Mr. Mueller says.
Old Navy, which extended its Memorial Day sale, is now anteing up its July 4 offerings with a “Feel the Spark” sale offering discounts of 60%. “The July 4th weekend is a key moment in the summer shopping season,” says an Old Navy spokeswoman.


Seasonal Line-Cycles:Going, Going…Gone

Zara’s Process Innovation Trumps Product Innovation

Zara was first in envisioning what the newly emerging techno-empowered 21st-century consumer would be demanding of the fashion world. They acted on it almost two decades ago, while the rest of the old world was sleeping. Today, while retailing past is playing catch up (or imploding), Zara continues to be the largest, best, and fastest. Their key ingredient, which most retailers do not understand—or if they do, could not pull off anyway—is Zara’s invention of a totally controlled value chain that is so quick to respond to consumers’ fashion desires that it proves that process innovation does indeed trump product innovation. Ironically, while process innovation is king, the ultimate result is product innovation, faster and more often.
The Business of Fashion recently coined the phrase, “see-now, buy-now, wear-now (SNBNWN),” emblematic of today’s consumer culture. Hellooo! The traditional four/six season line-cycle apparel world is finally waking up from a decade-long deep sleep to see that their market share has been gobbled up in larger and larger bites by fast fashion leaders Zara, H&M, Forever 21, and others. Just like lemmings, there’s a mindless urgency among slow-moving designers, brands, and retailers to catch up before they plummet over the edge. How blind could the leaders of these old models be? Abercrombie & Fitch, AĆ©ropostale, and American Eagle Outfitters all hit the wall a couple of years ago when their core consumers aged and moved on. Was it not obvious to these asleep-at-the-wheel brands that their leaders had failed to pivot in the direction of millennials who were rushing to the fast-fashion guys like there was no tomorrow? Did it not occur to them that this generation, larger than that of their boomer parents, is going to account for about 40 percent of all retail sales by 2020? And did they not understand that the next generation wants to see everything new now, more often, over and over? In fact, Zara opened 231 new stores last year and sales increased by 16 percent; H&M opened 413 new stores in 2015 and sales grew a whopping 19 percent! How many retailers can say that? H&M is planning 425 additional new stores this year, which will bring them up to 3,500 brick and mortar locations in 66 global markets. Zara parent Inditex is now up to nearly 7,000 stores in 88 global markets. They are obviously on to something, but it will be interesting to see if they know what they are doing or if they will become another Gap of the 2000s: overstored and out of touch.
Yes, the cadence of fashion has been speeding up over the past several years. This is driven largely by the millennial herd racing forward insisting on instantaneous access to a 24/7 overload of information including non-stop runway shows, celebrity images, and a constant array of new stuff streaming through smartphones and social media. Fashion really has morphed into entertainment. Celebrity icons are fueling the millenials’ appetite for newer, better, more famous.
Zara parent Inditex Quartz quoted Emily Gordon-Smith, head of fashion at research firm Stylus, “…it’s [SNBNWN] a post-digital phenomenon. Obviously manufacturing has sped up, but it’s about the information flow. People want the product now, and they want it as it’s happening, so lead times in stores have become massively reduced.”
As there’s a continuous stream of new products assaulting everyone’s eyeballs every nanosecond, consumers expect what they see to be available for immediate purchase, either online or in store. If a retailer is not moving at warp speed, consumers lose interest and the store loses a customer. As industry expert, Ed Gribbin, president of ?apparel and retail consultancy Alvanon says, “Speed alone is not the goal, it’s all about customer engagement and customer excitement. Yes, the process enables speedier, quicker product innovation. But, it also enables a ?continuous flow that the customer can anticipate coming into the store on a regular basis, which of course, keeps them coming back to the store, over and over again. Today, if you’re not getting new, fresh product out continuously, you will not keep your customer’s attention. They’ve got too many other distractions, not only from your fashion competitors but from every other consumer product category competing for their disposable income. The year 2015 saw record car sales; how many apparel brands suffered at the hands of a competitor they weren’t even anticipating; who had more exciting product and deals month after month after month?”

Zara Is the Model to Beat or Meet

Zara raised the fashion-apparel ante several years ago. Stupidly, most of us didn’t understand at the time that this branded-apparel specialist was redefining innovation for the entire industry. As a great knockoff artist, Zara fully understood that you could not win in the apparel game solely by creating unique new styles on a four/six season basis. Zara taught us that with the ubiquity and speed of communications in print, on air and on the ground, combined with high-tech rapid-response supply chains directly connected and instantaneously responsive to consumers, they could knock off and deliver the hottest new looks overnight. And the rub to the rest of the industry was that these creations were often copies of designers and merchandisers’ products from competing firms.

It’s the Process, Stupid

You can call it fast fashion, disposable fashion, or whatever you want. But what’s happening in this phenomenal, not-so-new-anymore business model is that they’re matching 21st-century technology with what 21st-century consumers really want. And these hungry customers want more, more, and more; faster, faster, and faster. It’s the McDonald’s factor: Customers want fashion value meals that keep them salivating for more—often for a daily fix. Zara delivers a constant stream of new stuff providing choice and quality. And you have to get there fast to get what’s new. Unlike typical merchants in the United States, Zara’s business model is based on running out of what customers crave, quickly.
It’s their supply chain process that makes it all possible. Of course their own design staff would certainly call themselves innovators. In fact, not all of their designs are knockoffs. But their enormous innovation to the process of making and delivering apparel does indeed trump product innovation. Ed Gribbin of Alvanon has a slightly ?different perspective on what they’re doing: “Yes, you could call Zara an innovator and in many areas they are. But their supply chain strategy is actually a bit of ’Back to the Future.’ They’ve gone back to an era when brands and retailers actually planned and bought fabric and manufactured locally. Back in the ’80s retailers could have reacted quickly but they did not, mainly because competition and consumers did not force them to. Now consumers control the retailer, not the other way around. Zara recognized that, went back to the future and invested in eight million meters of fabric sitting right there in Spain and decided to make most of their product, not in Asia, but in Spain, the Mediterranean region, and Eastern Europe. No plant is more than one day from their state-of-the-art distribution centers. No wonder no other retailer can match their speed!”
Furthermore, when a consumer visits any one of Zara’s some 3,000 stores anywhere in the world and finds completely new lines to select from twice a week, this is choice and quality on steroids. In fact, in the consumers’ eyes, this is product innovation, so much so that they feel compelled to buy something every time they shop because they risk not finding it if they come back the next day.
On top of that, they also feel compelled to come back twice a week at the risk of missing out on something new. Talk about generating new traffic and getting existing customers to buy more! On average, Zara’s customers shop in their stores 17 times a year, versus three to four for competitors. How do they do it? Zara is 80-90 percent vertically integrated, owning and/or controlling both the creation and distribution of their brand. Their staff of about 200 designers/merchandisers is constantly checking the world for new styles. They also hear back every single day from each store manager about what sold and what didn’t (a humongous communications and aggregation matrix to deal with daily).
Zara creates about 11,000 styles a year, about five times more than comparable retailers. They organize lines into very small lots and are able to go from start to finish on style production within as few as 10 days, producing only 50-60 percent in advance of the season, with the remainder manufactured on a rolling basis. Small lines go out twice a week. What doesn’t sell quickly is reallocated to other stores or marked down immediately.
Zara experiences a 15-20 percent markdown sale of season volume versus 30-40 percent for much of the industry. And of course, they can ramp up production to replace winning styles or like-styles. Gribbin adds: “As far as critical apparel/retail business metrics go, all of that translates to higher full price sell throughs, higher conversion rates, fewer lost sales, more inventory turns, and, no surprise, more profit to the bottom line.” Every retailer and wholesaler in the industry should be looking to emulate this model, particularly the apparel specialty retailers who are already mostly integrated. It’s a win-win 21st-century business model, an innovative process that consumers perceive as a steroidal product innovation machine. Call it what you will, but the success of these fast-fashion businesses is based primarily on their superior implementation of process over product, product, product, which many of the old-school guys will ride into the sunset, maintaining it to be the key to success. Zara’s process and business model is what has made it the world’s biggest fashion retailer. Investment firm Bernstein has acknowledged that they have “the best business model in apparel.”
The traditional retailers may end up dead on arrival if they do not understand what today’s consumer is really demanding. And more to the point, if they cannot adapt and evolve their business models to meet the wants and needs of today’s impatient, voracious consumers, they may not survive.