A few things to know about that $7 cuppa Joe
In this photo taken Thursday, Jan.
3, 2013, James Freeman, founder of Blue Bottle Coffee poses after cupping samples
of coffee at his roastery in Oakland, Calif. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
Still think a $5 latte at Starbucks
is over the top? Hold on, because now there's an even pricier cuppa Joe to get
buzzed about.
These days caffeine fiends are all
atwitter about Geisha beans, a high-end coffee so rare and prized it's being
sold for $7 a cup. That's a lot of dough for a straight up cup of Joe, but
worth it say fans of the beans which come from low-producing plants that grow
only in certain areas.
"It's got unique aromatics.
It's just rich with tropical fruits. It's got tremendous brightness in the cup
— sweet and just super interesting stuff," says Ric Rhinehart, executive
director of the Specialty
Coffee Association of America, based in Long Beach, Calif.
"Coffee people are just in love with it."
The beans emerged on the market
about seven years ago and quickly got the attention of high-end roasters and
coffee connoisseurs. Now, the coffee has moved toward the mainstream, being
offered at Starbucks and sold by the pound by major companies, including
Vermont-based Green
Mountain Coffee, which recently introduced its Colombia Geisha
Special Reserve coffee as part of its line of rare and premium beans.
Just don't expect this to become an
everyday blend, says Lindsay Bolger, director of coffee for Green Mountain
Coffee. "It can't because it's limited and obviously we're not going to be
able to carry it year-round," she says. But when you "really are
seeking a very singular, very unique, very rarefied experience with your
coffee, this is such a wonderful and convenient way to bring that to coffee
lovers.
Geisha beans originated in the Gesha
(no "i'') district of Ethiopia, hence the name. There's no literal
connection to the elegant Japanese hostesses, though Bolger sees a figurative
affinity in that the coffee is "very delicate, pure, the flavor expression
is refined, graceful, very lovely."
The plant was taken to Central
America at some point and became a sensation during the last decade after a
Panamanian farm, Hacienda La Esmeralda, offered the beans at auction.
James Freeman, founder of Blue
Bottle Coffee, a small, upscale chain based in the San Francisco Bay area — it
also has outlets in New York City — was among those who were impressed with
Geisha coffee when it first emerged. The company now sells tins of beans as
well as brewed coffee for around $7 a cup.
"We're getting a lot of great
feedback about how distinctive it is," Freeman says. "A good Geisha
is very much unlike any other coffee that you've ever had, so it's very
memorable. It's not a subtle thing for connoisseurs only."
Why the high price tag? Not only
does the Geisha plant produce relatively few beans, it's also very sensitive to
soils and climate. Plant it in one spot and it's special, try another and it's
just ordinary coffee, says Bolger. "It requires just the right conditions
and it requires very careful handling."
At Green Mountain, the Columbia Geisha
is being sold in 18-count boxes of K-cup packs at $31.99, which works out to
about $1.80 per cup. Blue Bottle is selling 150-gram tins at $25, with each tin
producing 8 to 10 servings.
The quest for super premium coffees
mirrors what's been going on in other parts of the food world, such as the
revival of heirloom tomatoes, says Rhinehart. "We're always looking for
unique flavors or exceptional qualities."
What Freeman likes about the Geisha
trend is that consumers are recognizing the name and getting interested in the
concept of searching out different types of beans. "It's making people pay
attention," he says. "It's not a 99-cent thing that comes out of a
tap."
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